Estella

I´m in love with Estella, but first, the walk here. It was long (14 miles) and hot. This is certainly an agricultural area with hazelnut trees, grapes of more varieties (some ripe!--a farmer handed a bunch to several of us who passed). I bought a vine-ripened tomato that was tangy and full of juice--not exactly your grocery fare. An observation: siesta is a wonderfull civilized custom. In the small town of Lorca, I was taking a break, eating an apple, and watching a grandmother harvest ripe tomatoes from her garden. The chapel bell rang two, and that was it--she stopped, walked over to a folding chair, unfolded it, put a scarf over her face, and went to sleep. This is going to be my office routine when I return (don´t ask how this´ll be different from my office hours before I left!).

Anyway, Estella. Not only does it have a great museum and three historic churches, but it was the 12th century Palace of the Kings of Navarre. I spent an afternoon just touring and taking pictures. At night, I stayed at a Hostelia on the Plaza de los Fueros. It turned into a Rick Steves moment--by eight o´clock, the plaza was alive with walking couples, kids playing soccer, babies on display, toddlers trying to escape from their parents, and older men arguing or playing dominoes. The cafes were bustling, an ice cream booth was busy, and one guy just strolled around playing his accordion and singing. I went to bed, but the party went on. In the morning, the plaza was transformed. Thursday is market day, and the entire square was filled with farmers, vinters, florists, honey gatherers, baked goods, and candy makers. I strolled though the tight lanes being offered tastes of everything good in Navarre (I could have bought jar after jar of honey). I wish I could stay until next Thursday--the town hosts an annual Ancient Music Festival starting one week from tonight. But I´m walking on.