Camino de Santiago

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

London, Inside and Out

Again, I'm pressed for time--less than half an hour--to make a blog entry tonight. I'm just going to make a few notes.

SHAKESPEARE'S GLOBE
Located just past "The Clink" (a museum dedicated to one of London's earliest prisons), Vinopolis (a wine warehouse and tasting room), and the ruins of King Stephen's abbey (nice 12th-century rose window left from the great apse) lies the reconstruction of Shakespeare's Globe theater. It's less than 100 years from the historic location of the original Globes. Yes, that's plural because there were two previous theaters. The first was built in 1599 and burned to the ground 15 years later when a canon fired from the "heavens" (the canapy covering the stage) set the tatch roof on fire. The theater was reconstructed in 1615 only to be closed and dismantled by the Puritans (spoil-sports!) in 1649. The latest Globe was opened in 1990 and is a "faithful reconstruction" of the originals--at least as close as we know based on sketches and diary discriptions. They used great, hand-hewn beams held together with wooden pegs and hand-cut board nailed with wrought-iron nails. The thatched roof was considered a fire hazzard (go figure) by the fire department, so a sprinkler system was installed along its apex and the whole place is sprayed with a fire-retardant material each season. The only other concession made to modernity was the use of a concrete floor where the "groundlings" would have stood--they actuall tried a dirt, nut shell, and ash floor in the first theatrical season, but it raised too much dust. In any event, just being in the facsimile of Shakespeare's theater rendered a memorable experience.

MILLENNIUM BRIDGE
After catching a bite at a wharf-side cafe, we strolled Millennium Bridge which connects Bankside which was once the disreputable (those theater folk!) side of the river to St. Paul's on the north bank. It's a suspension bridge and allows for a dramatic view of the river and most of Central London's sites. When it was originally opened, the Queen took the inaugural stroll--and then officials closed it for several months. The structure swayed dangerously up and down on the suspension cables and engineers were called in to stabilize the thing.

EASTER
Saturday evening we attended the first "Easter" service of the season at St. Paul's. This was actually the Confirmation Service that began outside the cathedral, processed to the baptismal font in the narthex, then moved to the main alter for Eucharist. The Bishop of London presided and the cathedral choir provided the joyful noise. Just one part of the pleasure of attending involved the treat of seeing the interior of St. Paul's illuminated for the evening service.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE
The country estate of Cardinal Wosley, this 15th-century palace is located about 15 miles outside of London. All I have time to say is, "Wow." Henry VIII took the place over--William and Mary made expansions and added a garden. It's on the Thames River--the monarchs could boat into The Tower when they were needed for state ocassions. They had costumed actors playing famous historic characters--including a fire-eating jester. Food was cooked on site in the way it would have been prepared 500 years ago. It was really like stepping back in time. And the location with its vast gardens held us until near nightfall.

Okay--no time to proof--check for type-o's or nothin'--this place is closing and I'm only up to what we did Sunday. Sigh. May never finish this blog.

2 Comments:

At 4/11/2007 7:45 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Just wanted to say you won't miss much at Scarborough Faire this year ... you're seeing much better where you are!

 
At 4/11/2007 8:48 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I have all the faith in the world that you finish this blog. Or when ya'll come home I'm gonna pick both your brains. Sounds like a slumber party to me.bc

 

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