Camino de Santiago

Thursday, September 07, 2006

Burgos and Beyond

They may call it Tierra de Campos, but this part of Spain looks like West Texas to me. This is the first computer I´ve found in three days--I haven´t even been able to call Dianna by phone for that time (found a satellite phone, but the calling card wouldn´t work). Anyway, Burgos! I felt like I was strolling through history. I had no idea that the cathedral was so beautiful--polished marble and limestone. The great dome was, in my opinion, more beautiful than Westminister Abbey. And the Cid´s are buried there! You know, El Cid (Charlton Heston) and his wife Jimena (Sophia Loren). The cathedral also houses an impressive collection of religious art in the cloister--I mean, they have a Da Vinci for goodness sakes. I really had no idea at the nature of the exhibit. Additionally, I toured the remains of the medieval castle on the hill (used by the French between 1808-09 during the Peninsular Campaign), and I followed the old medieval wall around as it was met on four corners by different churches (12th to the 16th century in construction). I do have to say that I felt a little un-nerved by a museum collection of gold artifacts used in private and public liturgical practice. There were dozens of works of art--tri-folding alter pieces and communion chalices--all made of gold in the 16th century. What concerned me, of course, was that the gold was wrung along with the blood of the Aztec and Inca peoples of the New World. How could such an object with such an origin have been used with full devotion?

Since Burgos, I´ve been walking. Spent a great night in Castrojeriz--a little town that failed to grow as Burgos did. All that remains is the ruined castle on the hill and three impressively large, if dilapidated, churches. One of them even houses a collection of more than 20 paintings by Spanish artists of the Renaissance. The church is rarely visited now, but the local church authorities won´t part with their prized collection. Tomorrow--Iglesias Santa Maria la Blanca!

p.s. Mom, Dad, Dianna--you guys will be amused to know that as I was climbing 1,000 ft. up a mountain outside Castrojeriz, I started singing ¨Cool Water¨ (¨Keep a-movin´Dan, he´s the Devil not a man, and he spreads the burnin sands with water!).

p.p.s. Thanks to all who respond--sometimes it keeps me going. Vicki, a double thanks for the kind words when I was a little down--yer a pal.

p.p.p.s. Dad, you´d have enjoyed the walking the last couple of days--dry and hot. Miss you.

1 Comments:

At 9/07/2006 4:55 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You are almost halfway through your journey. It sounds like you are having the best time. I guess you are carrying more water with you, we don't want you to dry up in those hills. I can't wait to see pictures. Miss you L&B

 

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