Cantigas

Anyone who knows me knows that I have an abiding passion for Medieval and Renaissance music. Among my favorite compositions are the Cantigas de Santa Maria, the Songs of Saint Mary, written in the 13th century in the court of Alphonso X of Spain. A few years ago, Dianna and I visited Scarborough Fair for the first time, and we fell instantly for the music of a group called Cantiga. They perform, among other works, the Cantigas, taking the themes from the original text and extemporizing as modern jazz artists might--as they might have nearly 800 years ago in Spain. Alphonso, called "El Sabio" (The Wise) because he blended Christian, Jewish, and Islamic cultures, wanted to venerate Mary at the height of what is called the Marian cult in the Middle Ages. The the words to the Cantigas narrate not only the life of Mary, but the more than 400 songs also describe miracles attributes to Mary throughout 1200 years of Christian history. In effect, they are a portrait of Marian veneration.

Why the history lesson? One of my goals for this trip was to visit the place where the Cantigas were first performed--to absorb the atmosphere in which these works of surpassing beauty were engendered by artists so long ago. Yesterday, I spent nearly two hours in the village of Villalcazar de Sirga--just a little Tierra del Campos town now, but home to the 12th century church of Santa Maria la Blanca. This was home to the Cantigas--the church of "Mary of the White"--where Alphonso X first heard many of the songs. It´s as much a fortress as a church; El Sabio was a Templar knight, and the chruch doubled as a Templar chapter house. A great, squarish building, it has a beautifully decorated porch and double transept interior repleat with images of Mary throughout. When I entered, the curator was playing a CD of Gregorian chant--it´s what most visitors expect for mood-music, I guess. I just sat and--okay, I´ll admit it--looked a little awestruck until he came over and asked if I had any questions. His demeanor changed entirely when I mentioned the Cantigas--he ran into a vestibule where the CD player was and immediately put on a CD of the Cantigas. He invited me into an area off limits to tourists and showed me a 14th century copy of 76 of the songs. He discussed an image of Mary that is reputed to have been Alphonso´s favorite. Then, he just left me alone to listen and imagine. Truely, I could hardly bring myself to leave Santa Maria la Blanca--a little repository where the discerning visitor may still hear as well as see the vestages of European history and culture.

I walked the long, rising hill out of town, humming my favorite cantigas to the rhythm of my steps. As I reached the top of the hill, two miles distant from the church, I turned around for one last look. Silly, I know, but I raised my hiking pole as a farewell and thanks, and at that very moment a lovely breeze blew up from the direction of the church. Another Marian miracle--worth a song? Oh, probably just a thermal or a wind blowing across the top of a rise . . . probably.

p.s. A special thanks to the members of Cantiga--Bob, Charry, Michelle, Mark, Max, Jamal and Martha--for keeping the music alive (visit them at www.cantigamusic.com). And especially to you, Martha, for helping to inspire this trip. I think I heard your harp echoing in the church yesterday.